Power Brake Booster Kit, 1962-74 Mopar A, B & E BODY

Power Brake Booster Kit, 1962-74 Mopar A, B & E BODY
1962-74 MOPAR | CHRYSLER | DODGE | PLYMOUTH CAR,
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER & DISC WHEEL KIT
# BB-6374
admonitory : installation of any part or kit should entirely be performed
by persons experienced in the facility and proper operation of brake
systems. It is besides the responsibility of the person installing any brake
component or kit to determine the suitability of the part or kit out for
that particular application.
note : Before operating the vehicle after facility test the function of the brakes under manipulate conditions.
Make several stops in a safe sphere from low speed and gradually work up to normal speeds. DO NOT DRIVE WITH
UNTESTED BRAKES ! Always utilize base hit restraints when operating the vehicle.
STEP 1 :
1. Check to be sure that your kit has all the necessity parts needed to complete this undertaking ! ( Use the issue parts tilt as a match list. )
STEP 2 :
1. Remove the follow components from your car :
Tech tip off : Prior to dismantling spray the nuts and bolts that you will be removing with a penetrant. ( besides disconnect the battery to
eliminate the risk of draining the battery or an electrical brusque ).
2. Remove the honest-to-god master cylinder from your car by beginning disconnecting the brake lines to the master cylinder. adjacent, remove the push rod from
the brake pedal by removing the bolt located at the crown of the pedal. now, remove the four bolts that hold the maestro to the firewall.
STEP 3 :
Things to prepare before assembly of the newly booster and master kit out :
1. Bench bleed the newly overcome cylinder to remove all the air. If all the air is removed from the passkey, then it will be unmanageable to push the piston in.
How to bench shed blood :
Remove the maestro from the booster and place in a vice. ( constitute sure to clamp onto the mounting ear and not the cylinder ).
Install the proper size plugs in the exit ports of the master.
Fill the master cylinder to the full line with brake fluid.
Use a round end rod or a phillips headway screw driver and push the piston in repeatedly until no bubbles are visible.
bill : This may take a minute or two of continuous pumping !
STEP 4 : – Installation of booster and maestro components :
1. Mount the new power booster with bracket to the firewall using the four holes, where the old master was originally located.
2. Attach the press perch from the promoter to the pedal locating it in the lapp stead as the manual master push perch. ( There is besides a longer push button
that comes with the kit if needed ). If the car originally had manual brakes, there may be merely one trap in the bicycle. In most cases you can use
the existing trap for the fresh power supporter but, in some cases you may be required to drill a hole 1 ” lower than the original hole. ( This will keep
the push perch from being in a dangerous slant which could damage the promoter ).
note : If merely one hole exists and the rod would be on a hard angle when attached, drill a second hole 1 ” lower to put the push button perch in a horizontal position.
3. now attach the vacuum hose to the bottom rear of the carburetor or directly to the inhalation manifold. You will need at least 18 ” of vacuum.
4. Mount the headmaster cylinder onto the booster.
5. Install the adjustable airplane propeller valve in line to the back brakes. It is authoritative that you remove any factory installed valves from the system. bankruptcy
to do this could result in a nonfunctional brake system.
6. On vehicles which had a individual mercantile establishment master cylinder you will need to install a new arduous line from the proportioning valve mercantile establishment to a T-fitting
and then on to the rise wheels. There are two outlets for the front wheel on the combination valve. You have the choice of running a line from each
roulette wheel to each mercantile establishment or running both lines to a T-fitting and then into one of the front outlets. ( In this scenario, you will have to plug the unused mercantile establishment ).
Either way is acceptable and neither route has improved brake operation over the other. ( be sure to keep all lines away from consume, steering
or other things that could harm them ). A protective handbuild ( Part # 3879283 ) that covers the lines is available from the Chrysler dealer.
7. When the valve is plumbed correctly, bleed the entire system.
8. Reconnect the battery and start the engine. Test the brakes. If the pedal point goes to the floor or is identical spongy then bleed the system once again.
9. Test drive the cable car in a safe localization before driving.
If you are not using a combination valve, or you have four steering wheel drum brakes, you will need to run one cable from the master cylinder to the front and one
to the rise. The exit furthest from the booster will feed the presence brakes. We recommend that you use a 10lb remainder valve on both the front and rear
drum brakes to provide a firmer pedal feel.
eminence : You will have to reinstall the stop inner light switch over on the pedal assembly and adjust it so that it functions by rights !
Drilling a raw hole
here puts the perch in a
horizontal position.
Attaching the perch here
would put it on excessively
severe of an angle.
TO REAR TO FRONT
Performance Online, Inc. / 714.278.0098 / fax 714.278.0098
1931 Sampson ave Corona Ca, 92879 Performanceonline .com

reservoir : https://tonupboys.com
Category : Car Brakes