LMC Truck: Brake Lines Install Video

LMC Truck: Brake Lines Install Video
Hey guys, I ‘m Kevin Tetz working with LMC Truck to bring you some technical information and how-to videos that are going to help you with your truck project .
In this video recording, we ‘re going to be dealing with the brake system on a 67 – 72 GM truck and we ‘ll show you how to replace the existing sword lines with a Stainless Steel pre-bent Brake Line Set. now all of these lines are pre-bent very accurately to match the factory bends and although it might look like a nest of snakes right now, the procedure is quite simple and we ‘re going to walk you through it .
LMC Truck besides offers brake hoses and rear brake hoses for both leaf form and gyrate jump vehicles, a well as all the hardware that you ‘re gon na need to mount your hard lines to the frame of reference rail and the human body. now although we ‘re not dealing with it in this video, LMC Truck besides offers wheel cylinders and drum brake rebuilding components american samoa well as a Master Cylinder and we ‘ll show you proper installation techniques for a master cylinder in this video equally well .
now the benefit of pre-bent brake lines is pretty damn obvious right here. This is a very unmanageable bend sequence to re-create. nowadays pre-bent brake lines mean all you have to do is go to LMCTruck.com or your LMC Truck catalog, pick them out, ordering them and they ‘ll show up on your doorsill.

nowadays, let ‘s talk about tools. You ‘re going to need basic hired hand tools, a combination twist set and some sockets and socket wrenches, but this, this is necessary. These are flare nut wrenches or line wrenches and you need them to effectively disconnect your brake lines without tearing them up. Some brake clean spray is nice to have about and so is some penetrative oil for the rust freeze fasteners that you ‘re inescapably going to run into, a well as you ‘re going to need some brake fluid, that ‘s kind of obvious .
hera ‘s something that you ‘re going to need if you ‘re replacing a master cylinder like we are. This is a chief Cylinder Bleeding Kit. You can pick these up at any car parts store and you ‘ve got to properly bleed the air out of the master cylinder and we ‘ll show you how to do it. a far as condom goes this is not a crazy dangerous undertaking, but you are working under the truck, so have some safety glasses on hand and get some gloves since you ‘re going to be handling bracken fluid .
immediately if you ‘ve just drug your truck out of the field, some insect spray may come in handy as well and here ‘s another thing besides. Some water, just plain water will neutralize the brake fluent in case you spill it on paint. You can keep it from eating the paint off your vehicle. nowadays since brake fluid is going to leak out some absorbing mats are easy to find at the parts memory and they ‘ll come in handy you can keep things clean and environmentally friendly. A head light, vitamin a goofy as it looks, is a actually good idea and keep your hands unblock to work while you ‘re underneath the benighted vehicle. now the LMC Truck catalogue is very nice to have about because the illustrations are so accurate, it can actually act as an assembly template .
now on a difficulty scale, it ‘s not that difficult, I ‘m gon na give it a 3 1/2 out of 5 but you might want to set aside an entire weekend to do it, so you can take your time and methodically do things the right means. nowadays let ‘s take a search at the undertaking .
immediately between the obviously leak headmaster cylinder with the paint stripped off the firewall and the spongy brake pedal that this hand truck has, the master cylinder is done, it ‘s on its direction out. [ Lift healthy ] Right here, obviously, we ‘re missing a retaining clip but right here, the brake hose is about worn through, and hera again on the flexline it ‘s frayed and that ‘s equitable dangerous. The steel brake lines, they ‘re hoary and it ‘s just excessively authoritative and they ‘re excessively easy to replace, so that ‘s what we ‘re going to do. Like we said these lines are identical accurately deflect so I just compare them to the lines on the truck and it gives me a roadmap to replace them one at a time. I ‘ve laid them out here, it makes perfect feel. Except for this guy, which is bent like this for the purposes of embark. so, here ‘s how to bend it back straight because it goes along the frame track without using any expensive tools. What you want to do is put the bending focused on the floor, so you ‘re actually using the floor for confirm. Do n’t bend it like this, because you could possibly kink the line. With a crusade on the floor, equitable gently, slowly, bend it back straight. Kind of using different areas of the crouch as patronize. One more fold here. Alright, so it ‘s not absolutely uncoiled but it does n’t have to be, it ‘s clamped to the C channel skeletal system track, so now we ‘re ready for that objet d’art to go in the hand truck .
One more thing LMC Truck besides offers junctions and unions. We ‘ve got one here but we ‘re going to try to re-use our originals and show you how to do the same. now the back of the hand truck ‘s the easiest to get to, so we ‘re going to start here and these are equitable little tabs. Bend them back. Alright, that ‘s loose. [ Music & Ratcheting ] There you go. [ Music ]
Clean this off so we can get a wrench on it. We ‘ll remove the tune from the roulette wheel cylinder, that does n’t want to cooperate, boy ! These lines are rusted up. OK, immediately you want to try and keep from tearing up your brake lines, but right there that shows us precisely why we need to replace them. It ‘s merely rusted, it ‘s just rusted. inactive got tantalum get this ridicule out of the wheel cylinder. It ‘s pretty slowly justly now, and for some reason it ‘s bone-dry. Out of there .
Alrighty. now this bolt correct here is just a retainer for the flexline and the union and we ‘re gon na remove it all. We do n’t even have to disconnect those lines. We can take it all off as one whole since it ‘s all getting replaced. [ Ratcheting ] That goes aside and we ‘re going to keep the fastener where it belongs, so we do n’t have to track it down later. There’s a clip right here that we ‘re going to get rid of, that holds the flexline to the frame of reference rail, and the new nip comes with the brake hose .
Alright. nowadays we can undo this guy, but since we ‘re replacing everything, I ‘m good going to try and cut it right hera. We can inactive use it as a template if we need to, it ‘s just gon sodium be much easier, and that bothers me that there ‘s no fluid in the rear tour. No wonder this things brakes were goofy .
now there ‘s several of these clips that connect the brake lines and the fuel lines to the frame rail and they ‘re easy to remove, they ‘re easy to get to. You can re-use if you want to, or you can barely get new ones from LMC Truck. even though I ‘ve already pre-soaked this with penetrating anoint it ‘s just hard to move it. I think that ‘s it ! Ah, I think we got it. No, it broke off. The bolt actually twisted in half. I do n’t care how it comes away, but it came off. point is, it ‘s been rusting since 1971 so I guess it ‘s earned its, its stubbornness .
here ‘s the union we need to keep it but here ‘s where your line wrenches come in handy. We want to keep the flats intact so we can we re-use this assemble, so your trace wrenches will do precisely that .
We ‘re finally getting some, ultimately getting some brake fluid out of the brake system. There we go .
alright nowadays, if you ‘re breaking this project up into afternoons or days on a weekend. nowadays might be a good time to go ahead and replace what you good pulled out. That ‘s what we ‘re gon na do. We ‘re gon na pre-assemble this “ T ” for the rear axle right hera, but before you start putting thrust together, get use to doing this .
We ‘ve got some pause clean spray. Do n’t assume that there ‘s nothing in the lines, do n’t assume that barely because they’re new, that they ‘re perfective. Something may have crawled up in there or possibly debris from shipping. [ Air-blowing ] Blow them out, make surely they ‘re good and clean. That way you do n’t end up troubleshooting a problem, that you do n’t need to deal with. A small bite of preventive care. This besides, kind of puts the ecphonesis point on the need for guard glasses excessively. Protect your eyes .
Get that guy out of the way. We know that this goes hera. I good want to make certain these are seated, I ‘m not even going to actually snug them until we get them clocked in the right stead, and by the way never use Teflon always on brake lines. They ‘re designed to be a press-fit Teflon will seal the threads but it wo n’t seal the circuit. Alright. That goes there. Yep, right over there .
What we ‘re going to do is start these threads, just to give us some stability and a little bit of leverage, to put their lines in their concluding place. dependable enough .
These are brass fittings, you kind of get one inject, so you want to make sure the threads are seated and started by rights, so you do n’t strip them. OK, there it is .
You start to thread it by hand and then you take your tune twist. I ‘m not going to amply tighten this until I ‘ve got all the connections made, but I am going to run it in which takes a while when you ‘re doing one flat at a clock time. Alright, that ‘s good adequate for now. immediately we can put this lento and cautiously in behind the yellow journalism. [ Music ] There it is. Alright, cozy right there. [ Music ] There. now, place our lines in there .
With everything kind of in a place you can use the tab as leverage to get everything set where it needs to be. There we go. There [ Music ] There. [ Music ] There. [ Music ] [ Tapping ] A little bite of love to the axle yellow journalism. [ Tapping ]
Alright, now we can tighten up our union over here, work our way forward. [ Music ] I can give the lines a nice cubby with my flare nut wrench. We ‘ll check them again when we leave the system, we ‘ll merely check for any fluent leaks .
We do n’t want to over-tighten them. There dainty ! immediately I ‘ve blown out my production line, but I ‘ve got the rubber cap bet on on it. Protecting it good in case as I ‘m feeding it in the frame rail I jam some crud up into it, and have to clean it out wholly over again. Alright, that should be about it. Alright so my hard lines coming through there, I connect now to my flexline .
very well now with that close, go up in there and I ‘ve got a clip that ‘ll slide rear there, to lock that circuit right into home. This is our retaining clip it ‘s going to lock it in rate. It good gets tapped in. [ Tapping ] There it is. now we ‘re just going to loosely bolt in our brake line servant and we ‘re able to reuse one of the original ones. I ‘m going to equitable hand nut it. We ‘ll snug it down, we ‘ll secure, ensure of the placement of the rest of the lines. Alright, since this servant was rust, we ‘re going to use one of the raw ones from LMC Truck. [ Ratcheting ] Alright, keep that a little spot idle, in case we need to move the lines around .
OK, underneath the crossmember of the hand truck I ‘m up hera and got my head light on and evening with the occupation wrenches I still had to cut this channel because a lot these nuts are rounded off. however we can still save the unions and the T fittings and get everything out of here and still retain the form of the brake lines that were pulling off, so we can compare them to the ones that were putting on. now even the lines on the articulation up here is indeed hamburgered up I ca n’t even turn it with a couple of pliers, so I ‘m just gon na cut them. The ever alarming, closely dry, brake lap .
OK, now we can get rid of these old lines. Out with the previous. There ‘s those guys. now this is tight. [ Tapping ] There, o. There [ Ratcheting ]
We ‘re going to keep that thunderbolt, and then good now we ‘re barely going to go ahead and replace our flexlines with the bull washer on either side of the banjo bolt. We know it ‘s in the correct way when the kernel on the crown, falls into the distribution channel on the caliper. There we go. Perfect. Good gosh, there. [ Ratcheting ] That ‘s going to weep from the caliper for a short bit. mighty nowadays we ‘re rescuing our copper washers again but, I besides want to make sure that my banjo bolts are good and clean. We ‘ve got a fluid passage right there, bracken fluent has to go through. So we ‘re good to go. Set our banjo run off in, make sure our copper washer is in locate. Use a short bite of brake blank, and wipe the crust off of it, because for some reason this side is a small moment more dirty. Alright, arrant, it can go there, the way to connect that up with the other line .
Give this a cozy for nowadays. nowadays our truck is hoary, there ‘s no fresh key anywhere but if your restoration is fresh and you ‘ve got brake fluid dripping down here could eat the rouge or even wrinkle the powdercoat, so that ‘s where body of water comes in .
This is just H2O and I ‘m literally dousing it and rinsing the brake fluid off with water. Water neutralizes the brake fluid and will stop its corrosive action correctly in its tracks.

now we ‘re going to install the retaining clips that were n’t even here when we started. [ Tap ] Just like that. As we pulled the old lines off the truck we compared them to the raw pre-bent stainless steel lines and it made it very easy to choose which ones to go back in and where to put them. fair like the others we ‘ll thread them in a fingertip first base and then come back and snug them up by and by when it ‘s all fit .
OK, we ‘re going to reuse this original coupling to complete our brake tune circuits and this is where the telephone line wrenches will save you parts and money. Look at that. Thank you line wrench .
OK, this is our buttocks circuit going all the way to the back. This is the union we just borrowed and it ‘s going to the front, actually transitions into the rear of the master cylinder, so we just got tantalum get it threaded by hand. There, and now this side. Alright. possibly it ‘ll thread in, possibly it wo n’t. sometimes, sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you ‘ve got to pre-bend the lines just a bit. I think, we got lucky. Alrighty. I ‘ll tighten them up in a little spot .
indeed this is our fresh stainless tune that goes to the rise circuit and this is where it connects to. This goes up to the rear, the rear roll of the overlord cylinder, the dual reservoir .
This brass T-fitting is new from LMC Truck and it ‘s going to connect this course, to the agate line that goes to the battlefront caliper on the driver ‘s side, to this telephone line here, that goes up to the front reservoir on the maestro cylinder, that we ‘re replacing that line deoxyadenosine monophosphate well, so we ‘re going to put a brass match in and replace the upper lines, finger-tight into the administration T, and connect driver ‘s side caliper line. Alright, now our metric ton is in there .
This guy ‘s ready, now we ‘re quick for these 2 new lines that go up to the passkey. ( Master Cylinder ) [ Lowering truck ] There we go. OK, it ‘s kinda what I figured we ’ ra bone dry in the back, but we ‘ve still got some fluid in the front. Just using a light bulb centrifuge, getting my brake fluid out. A turkey baster besides works for this. It ‘s a cheap tool .
This is actually made for battery fluid, so we know it ‘s going to withstand the brake fluid corrosiveness. interestingly enough our brake fluid is an interest brown color which means it ‘s soaked with water and needs changing anyhow .
We got some brake fluid on the paint, so I ‘m going to soak it with the body of water because we do n’t want to damage this amazing paint job. Alright, now we ‘re gon na, oh yeah, there we go .
We ‘re taking the Master Cylinder off, because we ‘re putting a fresh one on. Alright, there ‘s that. [ music ] There. Since we ‘re here and they ‘re unhook at the bottomland, we ‘ll get our portioning valve out of here excessively. Give it a estimable inspection, clean it up .
so, when replacing a master cylinder, you ‘ve always got to perform a bench run. It ‘s a pretty simpleton routine, but it ‘s absolutely necessity. Basically, what you ‘re doing is purging the air out of the fluid passages, the master cylinder itself, so that it pushes arrant fluid and not air bubbles into the bracken circuits front and rear .
The Master Cylinder Bleed Kit comes with several different fittings and since they ‘re plastic be very careful tightening them in. You want to make sure that you get an air travel taut burst, but you do n’t want to strip the threads .
OK, I ‘ve got 2 hoses for the front and rear reservoirs and the clip that ‘s gon na hold the hoses in. We go to the buttocks, go to the front, we ‘ll bring these guys around and connect them to credit card fittings on the side, and make certain there’s no kinks. Alright. now there ‘s a new seal on every bottle of brake fluid. I like to use the smaller bottles of brake fluid that way if I do n’t use it all, it sits on the shelf for two years and gets a bunch of moisture in it. Doesn’t cost me a whole quart of fluid, I fair use what I need .
so now use a flat screwdriver and actuate the master cylinder fair like what happened if you push the bracken pedal inside the cab and right now it ‘s full of tune. You can see the bubbles. You can see the fluid going back and forth between the bowl and the reservoir preferably and the fittings. The foam is what you do n’t want to see. so, if it starts to foam up like that it ‘s just a bunch of air bubbles therefore give it a little bit of a break .
Let the foam fritter. The rear circuit reservoir, the back one it ‘s looking pretty dependable. I do n’t see any bubbles but the front we ‘re calm working. oklahoma I ‘m moving slower, works better and I can see fair a couple small more bubbles coming up through that hose. I ‘m not seeing any more bubbles. Alright with our master cylinder amply bled it ‘s going to stay right here till were cook to install it .
We ‘re going to re-use the original proportion valve for this hand truck. Since we ‘re not changing the brakes up, drum in the rear, disk in the front. The prop valve it ‘s a boastfully dumb animal unless it ‘s damaged, it ‘ll probably even work just fine, but we do want to clean a little and give it a adept inspection .
here ‘s what we ‘re looking for. now you want to look down into where the fittings go, the internal flare, well it ‘s boldness, you do n’t want any damage on that. Ours look good. The backsides look well. so now we ‘re going to give it a quick snapshot with brake clean .
crucial to wear glasses because this farce can backfeed. Yep OK, we ‘re good hera. I just want to make certain all the fluid passages are pass, and everything is hunky dory. It ‘s happy .
One more thing, take my hemophiliac valve unleash. [ Spraying fluid ]
very well beneficial, adept we ‘re back flush and it ‘s well-defined. Oh, there you go. [ Spraying fluid ] Alright, now we ‘re going to blow it out with some tune then we ‘re fix for reinstallation. [ Blowing vent ]
Alright, we ‘ll throw our hemophiliac valve back in, and while we ‘re here, we ‘re going to install the lines. There we are. here ‘s a pre-bent line for the rear brake racing circuit. Snug as a bug in a rug. Alright nowadays these guys, just kinda hang together like that. then we can see where they go together like that and meet the circuits down underneath the cross-member .
alright now we ‘ll install the proportion valve and get fix for the victor cylinder. We ‘re on the homestretch. Alright I ‘m gon na feed the lines down good through here, cautiously. It ‘s a bite of a saber saw perplex. not excessively bad .
now we ‘ll broadly mount the prop up valve on the firewall. Just like that. here ‘s a line from the rear reservoir of the chief cylinder that goes back to our rear bracken circumference and I ‘m going to snug these in place right now. After I get everything snugged in, and after we make surely that there ‘s no leak in the system, then I ‘ll clamp it all down to the frame rails and cross members. I want to be able to get access in case I got tantalum give these an supernumerary short twist. There ‘s that. Alright, so the raise circuits complete .
immediately, I ‘m gon na hold my administration T in rate with an adjustable wrench and use the channel wrenches to tighten up the line fittings. I ‘ll get the crown line from the front reservoir of the dominate to the crossing for the front tour, and I ‘ll give it one little extra sting of beloved. OK. now everything ‘s effective and snug .
now, I ‘m going to cap off these guys real quick, so we do n’t lose any more fluid on the installation. There ‘s that, drain it back in. now we can put this sucker in its fresh glad home .
now to make sure the brake plungers in the right station and it is. Oh yea, were home .
[ Ratcheting ] Leave that a short bite free till we get our lines hooked up. Throw something down here to catch any bracken fluid that might fall away and we ‘re gon na get rid of our fictile fittings. I kind of hamburgered them up tightening them a little excessively tight, but they ‘re credit card fittings. now we ‘re going to lose a short moment of fluid, not a whole set. Just make certain the threads are caught there. OK, there it caught. Thank you, thank you threads, thank you agate line twist. Thank you brand new fittings .
now we ‘ll tighten the master cylinder against the firewall, and give these a final cozy. [ Ratcheting ] There we go. That’s close. now that we ‘ve got everything bolted in, all the lines are threaded. now I can go back and give a nice concluding effective and compressed cubby on all of these line fittings with my flare addict wrench.

OK, there it is. man that looks antic, except for the fact that I ‘ve got brake fluid all over my inner buffer. now the paint ‘s drivel on here anyways but if you had a nicely restore vehicle with good paint, here ‘s where your bottle of water comes in handy. Just neutralize all of that brake fluid .
now keep in mind of course we need to bleed the brakes on this truck, but we ‘ve barely shown you that it ‘s an accomplishable an easy goal to wholly replace all the original vintage carbon steel lines on this hand truck and install new stainless steel steel brake lines sets, that not only match great but they look great a well. Keep in mind you can look through LMC Truck catalogs or go to LMCTruck.com for other ideas on how to increase the performance and the looks of your 67 to 72 Chevy pickup .
I ‘m Kevin Tetz thanks for watching .

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Category : Car Brakes