here ‘s what I have from years of collect and using one-man brake hemophiliac tools on cars of many different shapes and sizes :
Plastic Bottle Type
cost : $ 6 – $ 20
Where to buy : AMPRO T71658 One Man Brake Bleeder ( or literally any car parts store )
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First up is the omnipresent constrict hose in a bantam formative bottle type brake hemophiliac. You can find this type at pretty much any car parts storehouse. just hack this onto the hemophiliac nipple of your brake caliper, snap open the brake hemophiliac sleep together, and slowly pump the brake pedal. a long as the hoses going into the bottle are full of fluid, you can keep pumping without letting air travel back into the brake bicycle .
The downside is that the bottles tend to be bantam ( by design ) so they fill up identical promptly. If you are bleeding large brake calipers or are doing a bang of the brake system, you will be running back and forth to empty the bottle every 5 or so pumps of the brake bicycle. The construction of the bottle besides tends to be bum, as are the quite hard fictile hoses which rarely do a great job of sealing against the hemophiliac nipple. If you use this type of brake hemophiliac bottle, expect to replace it once every few brake jobs .
- Cheap and universal
- Works well for quick brake bleeding jobs
- Available pretty much everywhere, so no worries if you forget yours at home
- Hard plastic hoses may not seal well against the bleeder nipple
- Small bottle means you have to stop and empty the brake bleeder bottle often
- Bottle is pretty fragile. Don’t let this roll around in your toolbox or it will come out in pieces.
Inline Check Valve Type
cost : $ 11 – $ 15
Where to buy : gesture Pro 08-0143 Hydraulic Brake Bleeder
The brassy plastic bracken hemophiliac bottles are all right for promptly brake jobs, but running back and forth to empty the liliputian hemophiliac bottle can get annoying if you have to flush out more fluid. While they do sell more expensive kits with larger bottles, there is a better solution .
This motion pro kit is basically a metal check valve between two pieces of compromising plastic hose. The one-way valve keeps the air from getting sucked back in while springy hose clamps keep a close seal around all connections. Because the ends are open, you can besides bleed straight into a catch pan or a larger bottle .
Despite its simplicity this design works well. Because the old fluid is retained in the hosiery, it ‘s easy to step forbidden and see the condition of the fluid as it leaves the brake caliper. The metal check valve shrugs off accidental drops and it does n’t seem to degrade over time like the plastic bottles. And if you do manage to lose or break it, it ‘s still cheap to replace .
- Durable and portable
- Lets you bleed directly into a larger container instead of going back and forth to dispose of fluid
- Check valve doesn’t work well for bleeding clutch systems
- Can’t be used to bleed master cylinders
cost : $ 12 – $ 25 per copulate
Where to buy : accelerate Bleeders at BestBrakes.com
Another choice is to put the check valve into the caliper itself. speed Bleeders are hemophiliac screws with a spring-loaded ball valve built into the torso. I ‘ve tried a few designs over the years ( including some very crazy looking variants ) and found that the original Russell Speed Bleeders tend to work the best and be the most durable .
The concept is that you unscrew your existing brake hemophiliac screws and replace them with these screws. When you bleed the brakes, all you need to do is to put a length of hose on the hemophiliac nipple, open it a quarter turn, and start pumping out the honest-to-god fluid .
The biggest challenge is finding the right cheat size for your calipers. If your car hush has the OEM brake calipers, this should n’t be an publish. But most aftermarket and rebuild calipers come with larger brake hemophiliac screws than they had from the factory. In these cases, you need to measure your existing hemophiliac screws to make sure that you are ordering the right size. even, this is a big choice if you primarily work on one car .
- Set and forget – All you need is a length of plastic hose to bleed your brakes
- Easy to use once installed
- Not transferrable across cars
- Finding the right fitment can be a challenge with non-OEM calipers
- Metal tends to softer than the OEM bleeder screw. Be careful not to over-torque when tightening.
Pull Type Vacuum Bleeder
monetary value : $ 30 and up
Where to buy :
Xem thêm: Why Does Your Car Shake When You Brake?
All of the tools that we ‘ve talked about so far do a good job of bleeding tune and erstwhile fluid out of your brake calipers. But what if you let the fluid level shed besides broken and there ‘s air travel in your master cylinder ? Or if you need to change out the ancient fluid in your clasp hydraulic system ?
The tools we ‘ve talked about so far wo n’t work in these cases. That ‘s because they rely on force from the overcome cylinder to push out the old fluid. If the master cylinder ca n’t produce enough blackmail in the areas that need to be bled, you ca n’t rely on them to effectively bleed the organization .
Enter the vacuum assisted brake hemophiliac. These bleeders rely on vacuum to suck the fluid out of the hydraulic arrangement, using either a hand-operated pump or a Venturi valve connected to an air compressor. I connect mine to a 21 gallon Harbor Freight compressor using the quick get in touch port on the grip. I have besides used the manual of arms pump ones and can confirm that they work just angstrom good .
Because they are vacuum assisted, you can use this type of hemophiliac to bleed pretty much any hydraulic organization including your batch fluid or ABS module. You besides have to do less exploit because you do n’t have to get into the car and push the pedal. Once the pump is attached and you are drawing a vacuum, all you need to do is sit patiently as all of the old fluid is sucked out of the hydraulic lines .
The one drawback is that your car ‘s hydraulic systems were not designed to contain a vacuum. Using a vacuum hemophiliac puts stress on the seals in the chief cylinder arsenic well as the rubber bracken lines connected to your brake calipers. generally this is n’t a problem, but if your car has older brake lines or if your overcome cylinder is older, vacuum bleeders can cause leaks. I learned this the hard way on an old Nissan Quest that had seen better days. Because of this, I tend to use vacuum bleeders meagerly .
- Doesn’t rely on pedal pressure, so you can bleed master cylinders from the caliper
- Can also bleed clutch hydraulic systems and some ABS circuits
- No need to get into the car to push the brake pedal and risk getting brake fluid all over your interior
- Can cause leaks in old master cylinders and worn rubber brake lines
- The manual pump models can be surprisingly expensive – more than the air compressor powered ones
Push Type Power Bleeder
monetary value : $ 50 and up
Where to buy : motivation Power Bleeders Kits on Amazon
For those of you who need to do a full bracken system hot flash and/or are worried about the condition of their seals, we have the push type office hemophiliac. This one is a Motive, and at $ 50 + extra for adapters, it is the most expensive brake bleeding instrument in my garage .
Setting up the Power Bleeder is a bit more byzantine than with some of the others. First, you fill the office hemophiliac with newly brake fluid. then mount the hemophiliac to the master cylinder reservoir using either a model-specific arranger or a universal adapter like this. then use the integrate pump to pressurize the master cylinder to 15 psi, attach a hose to the brake hemophiliac nipple, crack the valve, and delay. The hemophiliac will force new brake fluid through the system from the reference and push all of the honest-to-god brake fluid, along with any air, out of the hemophiliac .
Because these power bleeders push fluid in the lapp commission as the brake pedal point, they wo n’t put undue tension on your seals or brake lines. once you have it set up, it ‘s very easy to do a full organization flush of your car ‘s brake or seize system .
The downside is that the adapters are model-specific, indeed if you plan to service a bombastic act of cars, you need to have a few adapters on hand. Motive makes universal adapters, like this 3 ” alloy adapter pictured here, but they can be fiddly because they are designed to be attached to the master cylinder with hooks and chains. Pro point : Skip the chains and use pair of ratchet clamps to hold the adapter to the bracken reservoir .
- Sure fire way to bleed all of the air and old fluid out of your car’s brake or clutch system
- Continuously supplies fresh fluid to the system as you bleed
- Won’t cause undue stress on rubber lines and master cylinder seals
- Some adapters can be fiddly (e.g. all of the ones that aren’t the screw-on type)
- Not very portable
- Expensive, especially if you buy adapters for different cars
Conclusion and Recommendations
so which of these one-man brake bleeding tools is good ? For the home mechanic or the track-day fancier, I recommend either the Inline Check Valve or Speed Bleeders. They are durable, monetary value effective, and are easy to use whether you are working at home or bleeding your brakes between track sessions .
If you plan to work on a large number of cars or are planning to do major brake system oeuvre on your car, I recommend investing in a Push Type Power Bleeder. Yes, it ‘s the most expensive creature but it ‘s well worth it when you consider the total of time and frustration it saves you during big jobs .
Stay safe and keep those brakes in good condition. See you at the track .
disclosure section :
StudioVRM is not sponsored or supported by any bracken companies. All of the items here were paid for out of Roger ‘s own pocket except the Motive Power Bleeder, which a ally and erstwhile roommate left behind when he moved out. I bought the universal adapter though so it was n’t actually free either .