Complete Guide to Aftermarket Disc Brakes

Complete Guide to Aftermarket Disc Brakes
The magnetic disk bracken, as we know it, was first patented in 1902, but it failed to gain acceptance in the U.S. until the early 1960s when vacuum help made the pedal effort acceptable for the drive public. european makers adopted magnetic disk brakes in the ’50s, quickly following Jaguar ‘s authority in the 1953 24 Hours of Le Mans subspecies using four-wheel disk brakes. While exotically sculpted and finished calipers get all the glory, the disc brake rotor is where the arctic meets the road, or more literally, the pad meets the rotor and kinetic energy is converted into heat. The rotor has two critical functions : provide a consistent, high coefficient of friction open for the pads to engage, and dissemble as a heatsink and at the lapp time shed that inflame into the surrounding air. When talking rotors, mass is your ally since mass helps regulate heat. With aftermarket and high-performance brakes, a bunch of engineering goes into rotors from the materials used to the design of the cool vanes. There ‘s besides a batch of science in keeping that heating system from migrating into the caliper and subsequently the brake fluent, but caliper design is another report for another sidereal day. For now, let ‘s focus on disc brake rotors.

What Were the First Disc Brakes?

The first disk brake rotors were one-piece castings slightly similar to the one-piece rotors specified on most cars and trucks, and many aftermarket applications today. They perform well but carry a load of excess burden, and they promote greater inflame transfer to the hub/axle and bearings. In smaller sizes like the CPP setup on the leave, which is designed to be used inside smaller classic OE style wheels, compact phonograph record brakes can provide durable service with far better braking compared to drums. however, as rotor diameter and thickness increase to improve brake leverage and heat absorption and profligacy, a solid rotor will distort in a bell swerve human body under arduous use, potentially causing odd pad clothing and surfeit dredge. Those concerns plus the ability to optimize for heating system related material expansion led to the development of two-piece rotors like the CPP 14-inch rotor six-piston setup shown on the right.

What Is a Two-Piece Rotor?

bikini rotors were beginning used on motorcycles to save weight and allow for the cook calipers required on the bikes. The manipulation of an aluminum “ hat ” or “ bell ” bolted to an iron rotor ring was introduced to the high-end rush classes in the ’60s. As with many track-bred innovations, the technology trickled down over the next few decades to more mainstream race and high-performance street drive cars, and now trucks. here you can see a two-piece rotor on the bequeath and a more traditional one-piece iron rotor on the right.

How Is the Hat Connected to the Rotor?

There are three common ways of attaching rotors to hats—or bells, as they say in Europe : fixed bolt and en ; T-bolt style floating rotor ; and stanchion manner floating rotor with anti-rattle clips. back in the ’60s and ’70s, the typical way to attach the hat to the rotor ring was with bolts that clamped the hat into threaded holes in the rotor. But a simple jell of bolts is n’t adequate to the critical task of keeping the hat securely attached to the rotor. Everyone has seen night pictures or video of brake rotors glowing red under racing cars caused by the enormous heat generated by heavy brake at amphetamine. Those cycles of inflame, expansion, and contraction, a well as thermal anneal of the bolts themselves means that the bolts will come lax or fail wholly over a relatively short menstruation of clock time. Using the right type of bolts, along with safety wire, can solve these issues.

What About Heat Expansion in Two-Piece Rotors?

The damaging effects of heat bicycle can be worse on bikini rotors because of the vastly different rates of expansion between vomit iron, steel, and aluminum. Aluminum expands at approximately twice the rate of hurl iron and grade-8 steel fasteners. early users of two-piece rotors learned that the bolts had to be safety wired to avoid catastrophic separation of the rotor and hat. Safety cable was the standard for keeping bolts in place in the ’60s, and these complex and time-consuming base hit wire schemes were all that stood between finishing a race or having the equivalent of a 150-mph flywheel come loose under the car. The modern fasteners used by companies such as Baer and Wilwood lock in place without the need for condom wire, but people still like the warm-fuzzy feel of security it offers. Plus it looks aplomb.

Which Bolts to Use with Two-Piece Rotors?

There are other issues with using conventional bolts. Because of the expansion rate differential and the stress relaxation it causes, SAE J429 grade-8 bolts should n’t be used at temperatures above 800 degrees, grade-5 not above 450, and plated bolts should not be used above 250 degrees. Iron and steel glow red at 900 degrees. Your rotors need to be fastened according to how much hotness you ‘ll be generating. so use the correctly fasteners and torque them to what the manufacturer stipulates. The bolts supplied by companies such as Baer and Wilwood are designed to handle the heat and stay locked in space tied under extreme heat.

How Critical Is Bolt Size and Design?

Bolts must be sized so that the bluff airplane, the surface where the hat and rotor are attached, is on the shank of the run off, not the string assign. Bolts are weakest at the root of the weave, and bolt military capability is reduced about 30 percentage when the string share is placed in plain. therefore, the length of the bolt shank is critical, as is the corporeal it is made from in orderliness to have an extended service life and significant margin of base hit. Look at the bolts used in your bikini rotors of choice. Are they sized correctly ? Do they have the right cannon distance ? And what material are they made of ?

Two-Piece Rotor Bolts

Like so many other technologies, aircraft and aerospace requirements led to the development extremely high-quality bolts and nuts that are specifically recommended for habit in circumstances like rotor-to-hat attachment. High-end brake rotors from Alcon, Baer, Brembo, and Wilwood use NAS A286 stainless bolts and nuts. These fasteners retain their clamp properties at temperatures improving to 1,300 degrees and are more than doubly a solid as grade-8 fasteners.

Specialized Two-Piece Rotor Bolts for More Clearance

NAS A 286 bolts come in conventional hex head styles and these alone counter-sunk tri-wing configurations for close headroom situations. NAS fasteners typically can be reused once for a rotor replacement. The torsion stipulation is double the grade-8 fastener, and while they cost 10 times arsenic much as other bolts, what would you rather have holding your rotors in concert ?

How Do Floating Rotors Work?

The following development in hat and rotor engineering is referred to as floating rotors. As rotor size has increased to keep tempo with today ‘s fast and heavier cars, the increased rotor mass, greater diameter, and thick hats has exacerbated the effects of differential rates of heating system expansion. To allow for that, rotors, or more frequently, hats are now slotted to allow the materials to grow radially while being safely clamped to prevent or minimize side-to-side motion. The aluminum hat and iron rotor “ float ” in relative to each other so that problems do n’t occur as the metals expand at their own rates when heated.

What Fasteners Are Used for Floating Rotors?

For street function, with acceptable noise levels ( the two parts can rattle under some circumstances ), two approaches have been used : t-shaped bobbins that lock the hat to the rotor, and more complex CNC shaped rotor stanchions often combined with anti-rattle clips. The bobbin is more compact and simple to produce, saving some cost and again allowing for tighter fitments. The stanchion style is better for eliminating or reducing noise, and due to its increased size and flat ( quite than round off ) sides, it can support 1.125-inch-thick rotors in 15-inch and even 16-inch diameter sizes. For these rotors, most aftermarket bracken manufacturers besides use aerospace-grade fasteners.

Xem thêm: Wikipedia

What Type of Iron Are Rotors Made From?

The quality of the iron used in rotors is besides important. All of the higher-end brake manufacturers use proprietorship formulations in the hurl iron rotors. They besides control for uniformity and preciseness with their casting and finish processes. The distinctive advanced rotor is finished to 0.0005-inch allowance. If your high-performance cable car will see significant track time, look for rotors specified for road race and extended on-course use with pads to match. Just because all rotors—from a stock successor to a high-end aftermarket unit—are iron does n’t mean they are all made from the same quality of iron.

Do Rotors Warp?

The most dogged myth about rotors is that they warp. It takes a lot of heat, the kind of estrus used in the cast process, to actually warp a rotor. The two coarse problems that cause pedal pulsation are lateral run-out and magnetic disk thickness variation. lateral run-out is typically caused by run-out from the hub face, steering wheel give birth, uneven lugworm nut torsion, or a buildup of rust and corrosion between wheel and hub. Disc thickness variation is most often caused by surfeit pad transplant, the very thinly layer of launching pad material that bonds to the rotor surface, and spotty wear from an improperly mounted caliper. The fix mount calipers, radial or ear-mount, found in about all high-end phonograph record brake systems have to be mounted squarely to the rotor. Most newly disc brake system issues are caused by caliper-to-rotor misalignment. The photograph shows a caliper and rotor before proper shims have been added. A precisely installed caliper will result in a durable, low-noise, high-performance brake system. Follow your manufacturer ‘s spectacles precisely.

Can You Buy Brake Kits with the Rotors Pre-Bedded In?

Some manufacturers offer rotor and pad combinations that have been seasoned and bedded on a brake dyno under operate circumstances like this Corvette setup from Pro-System BrakesAlcon. This ensures that your car ‘s brake will be quick to go from the first lap without trying to find the hours and a suitable placement to perform a proper rotor season and pad bedclothes process. This is standard routine in most rush serial, professional and amateur. Of class, there ‘s a cost involved.

Should I Get Drilled and Slotted Rotors or Slotted Only?

Drilled and slotted vs. slotted entirely, what is right for my cable car ? Drilled rotors were introduced to combat slog languish caused by outgassing where the pad literally boils away binding materials from the slog. This is n’t truly a trouble with modern performance pads. Selecting the correct mod slog conceptualization can eliminate embroider languish, but the higher heat they will generate can cause crack and accelerated wear in drill rotors. For in truth high-performance applications, specify slot-only rotors. besides, high-performance chase pads should n’t be used on the street since they will never get into their temperature range and will promptly eat your expensive rotors. The practice slot-only rotor on the right is still available. surface cracks up to a fingernail width are dependable. Slot-only or drilled and slotted rotors should be replaced when the slots have in full worn away or radial cracks at the drill holes become excessively large or extend from the hole to the border of the rotor.

Are Drilled Rotors Prone to Cracking?

Like we said, there was a fourth dimension when drilled rotors were needed, but for the most separate, those days are gone. today, drilled rotors ( to be fair, most higher-end brake companies do n’t actually drill the rotors, they are cast that way, which is a a lot better serve ) are truly more of an aesthetic share. They look aplomb, but for heavy track use they can be baffling if cracks start to radiate out from the holes. For a street car that sees little to no serious track clock, drilled rotors are hush a great-looking choice.

Slotted Rotors for the Track

The problems that drilled rotors suffer from under hard use is why most track-rated rotors from companies like Baer and Wilwood are slotted entirely. This lessens the luck of cracks forming under extreme point hotness, and the slots help clear away brake debris and debris. It besides increases the mass of the rotor compared to the same rotor with holes, which helps control heat.

How Can You Stop Rotors from Rusting?

Zinc or E-coat finishes are big for reducing rust buildup on rotors in street applications. The solid rotor is coated, and then the pads “ uninfected ” the coat from the cross area of the rotor. however, for racetrack performance, most manufacturers will not apply these finishes as they add time and complication to the diggings bedding process since these finishes are much slipperier than the raw iron and the coatings can become embedded in the pads. besides, under extreme heat, zinc coatings will turn to a powdery egg white tinge.

Are Carbon-Ceramic Brakes a Good Option?

The last discussion in brake rotors are carbon-ceramic rotors. For any application early than F1 or other short-duration, cost-is-no-object race series where single-use carbon-carbon rotors and carbon pads reign, carbon-ceramic rotors are the highest performance but most expensive choice. Carbon-ceramic rotors do not give shorter stopping distances, but they do provide significant slant reduction and much higher fade electric resistance. Brembo, Chevrolet, and Wilwood offer aftermarket carbon-ceramic rotors and brake systems. Keep in mind that carbon-ceramic brake systems function best when paired with ABS units.

How Fast Do Carbon-Ceramic Rotors Wear Out?

In everyday use, carbon-ceramic rotors will last far longer than iron rotors, but substitution costs are even identical high. In OE applications like the Camaro ZL-1 and Corvette ZR-1, track rats much replace the expensive carbon-ceramic rotors with heavier but cheaper iron rotors with the allow pads. Carbon-ceramic rotors wear differently than conventional iron rotors as they literally burn off material internally with hard practice. If you look closely at the photograph, you ‘ll see the hat has a minimum thickness and minimum weight specifications stamped on it. In clayey track use, the minimum weight is frequently hit well before the minimal thickness requiring substitute. There are fringy performance gains to be had with these alien composites, so let your wallet and your aspirations be your lead. besides keep in judgment that carbon-ceramic rotors are pretty delicate and can be damaged or destroyed if dropped or hit with a joyride.

How Do I Know if the New Brakes I Want Will Clear My Wheels?

All the major brake companies offer downloadable brake templates a well as detailed measurement schematics to aid you in buying new wheels or help determine if your previous wheels will clear your newly binders.

What if I Have Brake Fade but the Pedal Is Still Firm?

If your brakes fade and you still have a firm pedal, you have exceeded the heat rejection capabilities of the pads and you need higher-performance pads. If your brakes fade and you have a indulgent pedal or it goes to the floor, you ‘ve boiled your fluid. Brake cooling ducts can help either problem, and higher boiling point fluid can help with fluid temperature issues.

Does a Larger Rotor Provide Better Braking?

If you ‘ve been paying attention, you ‘ve most likely noticed that brake rotor diameters keep growing. Some of this is so they do n’t look puny when farce inside the 19- and 20-inch wheels popular today, but there ‘s a performance benefit, a well. If you recall your high school physics, then you know all about the leverage effect. As the caliper moves beget from the axle center it can exert more leverage on the rotor, which helps braking. There ‘s besides a benefit in that the larger rotor will have more mass for better heat operate. The downside is that the larger, heavier rotor will add more to your unsprung and rotating weight numbers.

What to Know When Choosing Brake Rotors for Your car:

  • Larger diameter adds to the leverage effect and helps braking
  • More mass helps the rotor better absorb and control heat
  • Larger diameter and more mass adds weight, so there needs to be balance
  • The two basic rotor types are one-piece and two-piece
  • Two-piece rotors have an iron rotor and an aluminum hat
  • Today, drilled rotors are more for looks and are fine for a street car that sees light track use
  • For heavy track use, you should stick with track-rated solid rotors with slots
  • Running high-heat track pads on the street will quickly eat your rotors
  • Carbon-ceramic rotors don’t stop better because of friction, but they do have less fade and a lot less weight
  • Floating rotors help solve the problems caused by the differences in expansion of the iron rotor and the aluminum hat
  • Properly designed cooling vanes, or fins, help the rotors shed heat to the air
source :
Category : Car Brakes