Circle Track Magazine

Circle Track Magazine
few things on a race car are as regularly underappreciated as the brake system. Yes, stock car race is about going flying, but that ‘s all the way around the track, not fair the immediate. The best brake system for your slipstream car is one that allows you to slow the cable car quickly without upsetting the car so you can roll through the flex smoothly and get back on the gas equally soon as possible. Pleasing the Driver Of course, when it comes to brakes, it ‘s a much about finding the pedal feel the driver is looking for as it is pure stopping might. How firm do you like the pedal ? How much pedal locomotion do you prefer ? Do you like the front brakes to be significantly stronger than the rear so that the brakes will not cause the car to be loose on turn introduction, or do you prefer a more balanced feel ? These questions are all about making the driver comfortable behind the roulette wheel, but they are important.

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Try to think of your brakes as a comprehensive system, from the pedal all the way to the rotors. In fact, let ‘s go further than that : Continue your retainer all the room to the cooling duct inlets in the front bumper binding. After all, brakes that receive a steady flow of cool air will stopping point longer and feel better late in the raceway than brakes that have boiled the fluid in the calipers and are only a little more effective than dragging your feet on the asphalt. When it comes to pedal tactile property, the master cylinders are an important circumstance. All things being equal, a headmaster cylinder piston that is smaller will push less fluid for a given total of pedal travel, but will create a higher line imperativeness. A larger passkey cylinder piston will have less line atmospheric pressure but will push a greater bulk of brake fluid, which means less pedal travel. “ The bigger the bore size you have, the more book it pushes and less line pressure it creates, ” explains Derek Spencer of Perform- ance Friction. “ You can use this to dial in a pressure separate [ balance ] between your front and rear brakes. The most park setup with double master cylinders for a typical short-track asphalt car is a 71/48-inch tidal bore master cylinder for the movement brakes and 1-inch hold dominate cylinder on the back brakes. If the driver wants more find, you can drop the bore size-perhaps to a 131/416 in the front and a 151/416 in the rear. That will give you more feel and besides a softer pedal, or more locomotion. That ‘s because the smaller pistons are pushing less fluid, and it takes more pedal motion to push the pistons out of the brake calipers. If you go the other means with larger master cylinder bore, it will give you a besotted, harder bicycle. The greater volume of fluid moved by the larger pistons will require less pedal campaign to move the pistons in the calipers, but because it produces less line press you have to push harder to get the lapp sum of braking forces. “ The opposite is genuine if you are working with the piston area in the brake calipers. A larger piston requires more fluid to move it, so it makes the pedal feel indulgent and requires more bicycle locomotion. Racers will run into this when they change racing classes and run a different style of calipers. For case, I have witnessed a distribute of racers have worry when they move from late Model Stock with the GM single-piston slider caliper to a series where four-piston race calipers are allowed-like Super Late Model. They are used to the individual, huge piston in the calipers that can contribute to a softer pedal, and when they go to a four-piston caliper, which is very better for racing, they have a unvoiced time getting used to the starchy pedal it produces. ” A topic of Balance A brake bias adjuster can be an incredible tool for a knowing racer. A diagonal adjuster can well change the sum of braking pressure sent to the front brakes versus the rear. As fuel burns off or the lead changes with the setting sunlight, you may prefer to change the brake diagonal more to the front or to the rear. A bias adjuster within the driver ‘s reach is perfective for that, but it is often excessively tempting to use the diagonal adjuster to cover early handling sins. Carl Bush of Wilwood Engineering agrees that the libra bar should merely be used for finely adjustments to compensate for bore wear, fuel burn-off, or changing track conditions. The key is finding the car ‘s balance, the discipline front/rear bias with the balance barricade centered, or achromatic. “ typical asphalt breed cars run on average at about 70 percentage front brake bias, ” Bush says. “ A big-block scandal Modified will use about the claim diametric. Dirt Late Models fall somewhere in the center. If a racer is constantly adjusting the balance barroom completely to one end of the car or the early in an try to correct the treatment during brake, you probably need to re-evaluate your component shuffle. ” Your options for changing what ‘s called the static diagonal, or brake bias, without the function of the libra bar are numerous. They include rotor diameter, caliper piston size, overlord cylinder piston size, and even brake pad compounds. Increasing rotor diameter increases the braking power, or bias, at that tire.

You should try to have your brakes in this image with the bias bar centered. As conditions change at the track, the bias measure is available to you to make changes. If the diagonal prevention is cranked all the way to the front or to the back to make up for a poor setup at the drop of the green flag, you ‘ve lost it as a tuning cock. Spencer recommends spending a fiddling examination time at the racetrack to find a well-adjusted brake apparatus. Tracking brake temperatures fair as you track tire temperatures can tell you a distribute about what your car is doing. On asphalt, Performance Friction representatives say they broadly like to see front brake temperatures 150-300 degrees higher than the rear. If it ‘s greater, then you are probably not getting the wax potential from your rise brakes. This will result in the front brakes being overworked, and the fluent in the calipers will boil, which will seriously degrade your ability to slow down in the turns. If the split is less than 150 degrees, you probably lose on entrance under hard brake. Choosing the Right Combination Finding the best combination of parts for your brake system can be daunting. If you are racing a series that does not place many restrictions on what you can run, your options are about unlimited. One of your best options is to choose a manufacturer or dealer you trust, preferably one that will work with you close and not just from behind the parts rejoinder, and start with their recommendations. Bush assists racers with their bracken setups at every level and recommends relying on a manufacturer ‘s experience. “ Wilwood has been profoundly involved with racing for 27 years, ” he says. “ In many cases, not only do we have a recommended service line for a particular type of car or series, we besides have a service line for the particular track you plan to run. That information can be used as a begin luff, but car dash, driver predilection, and chassis setup can all require adjustments. ” As we mentioned earlier, a larger-diameter rotor will increase braking force. This is because the pads are moved far from the axle centerline, and that basically increases the leverage the brakes have on the roulette wheel. There are several early advantages of a improbable rotor, but racers by and large tend to avoid putting big rotors on their race cars because of the extra weight. Any weight added at the wheels can be unmanageable to swallow because it is rotating system of weights. not only does it add to the overall weight of the cable car, but it must besides be spun, importantly increasing its inertia. besides, given the like measure of weight, the far it is from the axle centerline, the more difficult it is to spin. That ‘s why many racers have difficulty with the estimate of adding grandiloquent rotors that are besides heavy. But if you consider that the entire brake and caliper assembly fits inside the wheel and tire, which can be precisely as heavy, you realize that an incremental increase in rotor weight unit and diameter does not make a significant switch in the rotational inactiveness at each steering wheel. “ When considering rotors, you have to consider what they actually do, ” Bush adds. “ One advantage of the rotor diameter is to provide leverage to the caliper to slow the wheel. A bigger rotor will give more leverage and help with braking power. The tradeoff here becomes higher rotating inertia from the larger diameter and added weight. But the excess weight can be a secondary advantage. Another routine of the rotor is to absorb and dissipate heat. overall weight and cooling weathervane areas are the primary considerations here. For example, a 48-vane, 12-pound rotor will cool and heat cycle far better than a 32-vane, 9-pound rotor. There is a ceaseless conflict between trying to run the lightest possible separate and having it be heavy adequate to endure the event. If the rotor is besides light, it may crack or become heavily grooved. Inadequate cooling capability can besides allow the pads and calipers to become overheat and possibly fade. however, if a rotor is excessively heavy, it will surely cool and death longer, but it can besides cost a little in terms of lap times. Of course, a lighter caliper can only shave tenths off of your lap times if it is straight. Spencer points out that another advantage of beefy rotors is n’t barely longer animation span, but besides an increased ability to stay flat. “ The inertia you get rid of by going with smaller, lighter rotors can result in slower lap times, ” he says. “ Because when the rotors become falsify, they drag. This leads to loss of dominance, incompatibility, overheating, and modulation problems, all of which ultimately affect lap time. “ When rotors get hot, they grow, ” he continues. “ When they cool, there is contraction. This is a constant dynamic event. If you have rotors that are excessively light, the lower thermal capacity will cause it to heat up much fast. That means it ‘s going to grow and distort, or warp, a lot faster than a larger rotor. When that happens, the rotor will get out of round, and character of it is going to be touching the pads as it spins. The drag this produces robs horsepower and slows you down all the way around the racetrack. You think you may be cutting your lap times with the smaller rotors, but if they ‘re causing more drag, that can just kill your performance. “ It ‘s easy to tell if you have this problem. Just spin the wheel when the brakes are hot in orchestra pit lane. If the calipers are true to the disk confront, that bicycle should spin free. But if it makes half a turning and then slows dramatically or stops, then you know you have brake drag or something else wrong. Check your rotors. If they are out of round, meaning the rotor face is n’t flat, you might want to try a bigger rotor that can handle more heat. ” There are besides several important considerations to make when choosing brake calipers. “ Caliper choice is based on two main criteria, ” Bush says. “ One is the ask pad book, and the other is matching the piston area to both the chief cylinder volume or pressure output and the overall bias requirement. Heavier, faster cars running long races in suffer heat will wear pads far more quickly than a lightly car running short sprints on a light-breaking track. The pad wear rate dictates pad size requirements and therefore the overall caliper consistency size. But it ‘s the actual piston area size that must be considered when trying to set up bias or affect clamping exponent. Going to a larger-caliper body does n’t necessarily give you more stopping world power unless it besides has increased piston area or is adequate to of effectively running at higher line pressures. But, it will surely take longer to wear through the larger pad. ” Caliper MaintenanceYou scrupulously bleed your brakes and even flush the fluid at schedule intervals. You keep a astute eye on your rotors for cracks or signs of warping. Pads are by rights bedded. Lines are checked for leaks. You ‘ve got it all covered, right ? But how frequently do you rebuild your calipers ? Do you even have a caliper maintenance program ? If not, you need one. Carl Bush of Wilwood Engineering has particular tips for keeping your calipers in premier condition : “ A thoroughly way to judge caliper care intervals is based on pad tire. After a caliper has been used long adequate to wear through a dress of pads, some basic everyday care should be performed. Please note that it ‘s not necessary and normally not recommended that the caliper halves be separated during a rebuild. As the pads wear, the pistons become extended from the bores.

“ Before reseating the pistons into the bores to accommodate the facility of the raw launching pad set, the pistons should be removed from the soundbox, fully cleaned, and inspected for wear. Never use anything coarse than ticket steel wool to clean the pistons. The pistons should be clean and completely smooth on the out surfaces. They should slide freely in and out of the caliper bores when the seals are not present. Damaged or wear pistons should be replaced. New O-ring have a bun in the oven seals should be installed and the pistons then amply seated into the caliper torso. The caliper should besides be cleaned inside and out and blown completely dry before reinstalling them on the car. “ This is besides the time to completely flush the system with fresh fluent. Any brake alimony should besides include a routine inspection of the entire caliper body, including the areas around the hop on stuff, the bridges or bridge plates, run screws, and fluid tubes-if therefore equipped. Worn, damaged, or distrust parts should be replaced. The system should besides be flushed and the calipers equipped with modern seals at the beginning of each new season. If a person does not possess the equipment or cognition to confidently and correctly carry out the care procedures, they should seek the aid of an experience and capable technician. ”

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Category : Car Brakes