SEGUA I SOGNI Hi there,
I have an ’05 ZHP coupe ( 6spd ) with about 86,000 miles on it. In early Jan 2014, I went to a independent machinist, that I trust, to replace the front pads and rotors on my ZHP.
For several months before bringing it to the workshop, the steering bicycle would shake reasonably hard during braking from reasonably much any accelerate. So I went to the BMW trader and bought OEM presence pads and rotors and took them to the shop of the autonomous machinist to have the parts installed.
once I arrived at my mechanic ‘s workshop, they took my front wheels off. The mechanic looked at the existing pads and told me both sides on the movement had at least 60-70 % percentage of pad left and recommended to NOT replace the pads, since the ones that were on the car were still dear. So I said, approve I will return the pads to the Dealer and for him to precisely replace the rotors. He did thus and after he finished I left and the car felt fine. I made indisputable to be gentle on the brake for about 200 miles and did n’t notice any vibration.
Over the final calendar month the oscillation has come back and gotten a little bad every day. immediately, every time I brake at any rush the steering wheel shakes unless I press on the brake bicycle hard. At first it was scantily noticeable, but nowadays its actually bad.
Can anybody please tell me what is going on ? I doubt the rotors I bought from BMW were warped when I bought them and my freelancer mechanic is saying he habit guarantee any work when a customer brings in their own parts. Anybody with cognition, please chime in.
KevinC This one ‘s easy – you need modern FCABs .
Lanister From that sounds of it, you did everything right. The fact that everything was finely initially shows that the rotors were not originally warped. It does seem as though they are both ( or one of them ) warped again. What could cause this is a gently seized caliper ( second ), whereby it does n’t disengage the pads fully from the rotor ( s ). This causes changeless friction and thus heat build-up in the rotor when brakes are not in manipulation. Over clock time, the excessive sustained inflame will cause heave.
About a class ago, I bought a Honda element with this problem. While brakes worked fine, the driver-side caliper was seized up and it quite literally cooked the rotor. The causal agent was corrosion from salty roads found on the east seashore, where this car lived for a while.
It ‘s easy to check if this is the causal agent. Jack up the battlefront and spin the bicycle by hired hand. It should rotate freely and spin on its own for at least a few seconds. If it does n’t spin freely, that might be the emergence.
To deal with it, you ‘ll have to rebuild the calipers ( cheaper route ) or buy raw ones. The rotors may be salvageable if you get them machined .
KevinC It ‘s FCABs, I ‘d bet on it. Had accurate lapp symptoms when I bought my car, brakes were fine. New FCABs cured it completely .
Hornung418 You can see the FCAB failure physically if you have person drive the cable car lento and you watch the wheels as they apply the brake lento. The wheel will change beaver visibly. easy fix. commodity luck !
BCS_ZHP Jack up either front side, grab your roulette wheel at the 3 & 9 o’clock positions and shake it. If it ‘s bad FCABs, there will be looseness when you shake the wheel, if they ‘re wholly spend you ‘ll flush hear metal to alloy clip-clop. But if the FCABs are tight, then it ‘s what Giya said, you ‘ve got a stick caliper that heated astir and warped a rotor already. Since you ‘ll have the battlefront end in the breeze, spin the tire as recommended earlier .
SEGUA I SOGNI I appreciate the input guys. I did some google research and found a video recording of an e46 parked, and then person using a bicycle lugnut wring to test for any play in the wheel while its parked. movement in the wheel was a symptom of a bad FCAB. Is there an easy means to tell if one caliper is not activating at the like time as the other side ? possibly one caliper doesnt retract all the manner ? The trader said on the phone ( they havent seen the car ) that it could be one caliper is partially impound and frankincense not hitting at the like time as the other side and creating a rock. At all cruising speeds including highway speeds there isnt any rock unless I need to brake. If I apply the brake softly, I get a set of steering roulette wheel shake until I either press the brake hard or come to a stop or let off the brake pedal .
danewilson77 Jack up either front side, grab your wheel at the 3 & 9 o’clock positions and shake it. If it ‘s bad FCABs, there will be loosen when you shake the wheel, if they ‘re wholly spend you ‘ll even hear metal to metal clip-clop. But if the FCABs are close, then it ‘s what Giya said, you ‘ve got a stuck caliper that heated up and warped a rotor already. Since you ‘ll have the front end in the vent, spin the run down as recommended earlier.
Pure, unselfish, wisdom of solomon.
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I would merely like to add one thing … personally, I would stop using any mechanic that tells you to reuse old brake pads on newfangled rotors. If you ‘re trying to save some nickels, then sure, I get it, but seriously … That ‘s kind of like reusing an vegetable oil filter … Ok, possibly not THAT bad, but distillery …
Wear parts should always be replaced as a laid …
But, get on those FCABs and you should be good !
KevinC If those FCABs have never been replaced at your mileage, they ‘re decidedly going to be shot, even if a caliper is munged up besides. curious to see what the charming fastball turns out to be here. thoroughly fortune !
billyjack I would equitable like to add one thing … personally, I would stop using any mechanic that tells you to reuse previous brake pads on new rotors. If you ‘re trying to save some nickels, then sure, I get it, but seriously … That ‘s kind of like reusing an vegetable oil percolate … Ok, possibly not THAT bad, but still …
Wear parts should constantly be replaced as a set …
But, get on those FCABs and you should be dependable !
I was thinking the same thing. I guess it saves money but I ‘d quite save more money and not replace the rotors either until the pads are ready. Which could have been viable if the diagnosis is break FCAB ‘s. Either way I ‘d take the above advice to jack the wheel up .
tkundhi Was mentioned by others, start by checking the FCAB. If they are fine, you might have one other hypothesis other than wear rotors. Pad deposit on the rotors. Do you know what kind of pads are on the cable car ? If the PO put an aggressive embroider that requires a high operate on temp and the brakes don ; t get astir to that temp, it could result in to much pad compound building up on the rotors.
The fact the oscillation is going away when you are braking actually hard leads me to think its your pads. I do n’t recall FCAB vibrations stopping with increased bicycle atmospheric pressure.
danewilson77 I know Bruce is in the area. He could well diagnose and repair in about an hour.
Kids play for him.
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jakksfor20 One thing that you mentioned is you took it easy on the pads for 200 miles. That ‘s a good recommendation for ceramic pads … … ..My estimate is deposits on the rotors. Do a bed-in procedure on them and see if it goes away. Get up to 45-50 miles per hour, brake cursorily gloomy to 5mph not locking them up then accelerate back to 45-50 miles per hour at a decent acceleration. Do that 6-8 times.
Pads and rotors, pads and rotors, pads and rotors … … .. say it with me .
Lanister I appreciate the remark guys. I did some google searching and found a video of an e46 parked, and then person using a bicycle lugnut wrench to test for any playing period in the rack while its parked. movement in the wheel was a symptom of a bad FCAB. Is there an slowly way to tell if one caliper is not activating at the same clock as the other side ? possibly one caliper doesnt retract all the manner ? The dealer said on the earphone ( they havent seen the car ) that it could be one caliper is partially appropriate and frankincense not hitting at the like clock time as the other side and creating a shake. At all cruising speeds including highway speeds there isnt any shake unless I need to brake. If I apply the brake softly, I get a lot of steering wheel shake until I either press the brake hard or come to a intercept or let off the bracken pedal.
Usually, the issue with a impound calipers is that it does n’t let go of the rotor wholly so the pads are constantly rubbing, which causes for the rotor to be constantly very hot and finally falsify. It ‘s a common problem in parts of the state where they used salt on roads .
3ZHPGUY If you had a bad caliper, you would see spotty pad/rotor wear. besides the cable car would pull to the dependable side when brake. You have n’t mentioned any of that and it ‘s most probably the FCAB.
I have experienced that lapp oscillation and replacing my FCAB and front man control arms took manage of the issue.
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94jedi Glad I looked at this thread. I was going to replace my front rotors due to oscillation when braking but considering that my FCAB ‘s have never been replaced and my front rotors are less than 1 year old ( and I drive it reasonably comfortable ), I ‘ll replace my FCABs beginning .
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