Dana 60 conversion

Dana 60 conversion
upYou should, and need to, check the backlash in 3 or 4 places opposite of each other on the ring gear before removing the ring gear on the center section. It needs to be put back in with the same backlash + or – .002 either way scope twocents The Mopar factory service manuals from 1966 to 1971 cover every aspect of working on and setting up properly the Dana 60 as well as all the other rear ends offered in the cars those years thumbs
You should buy one those if you want you want to set the new posi up yourself. The posi unit, center section carriers, needs to have between .012 and .015 positive preload. You should buy a good dial indicator(one inch travel measuring in .0010 increments) with a magnetic base to check the back lash and carrier preload scope I don’t use a case spreader either, I use two pry bars to carefully pry the center section out and soft dead blow hammer to carefully put the center section back in up I remove the carrier bearings off one of the old center section I had and used my die grinder with a sanding roll to hone the inner race so they would slip on and off easily on the new posi unit to help check and set the pinion bearing preload scope(Same thing on the rear pinion bearing up) Once you have the prelaod and back lash where you want it then remove them and install the new bearings on the shim packs you have on each side, don’t change the shims after you have them set up tsk Make sure and recheck both the back lash and prelaod, the carrier should not slide in easily after the new bearings are pressed on tsk
As far as shims Dr Diff offers kits for them, I bought several kits to help avoiding the shipping for the next two I will do work The oldeder Dana 60 use shims to set up every aspect on them, pinion depth, pinion and carrier bearing preload and backlash. I have two junkyard truck and van 3/4 ton Dana 60 in the shop to use on future projects thumbs
As far as how much to narrow your rear end for your car are you happy with the way the current wheels and tires fit? Are you going to reuse them or change them? If changing them you will need to use them under the car with the rear end out to measure how wide the new rear end needs to be from axle flange to axle flange by measuring to the inner mating surface on the wheels scope Take you time in positioning them in the wheels well to get them perfect thumbs Mopar used a offset on the passenger side on all thier production car rear ends to get the pinion gear in the center of the driveshaft tunnel, I think it is between 1 1/2 and 1 3/4 inch shorter on the passenger side axle. Maybe someone on here can post a link to a past post with the exact measurments for the different year cars with the stock Dana 60s measurements help
Don’t forget to buy a new set of leaf spring mounting pads to use on the your Dana 60 housing, you may need to make them fit the larger axle tubes if yours are bigger O.D. than the stock 3.0 housing where scope Mine are 3 1/8 and I have seen some out of a 1 ton that had 3 1/4 inch O.D. tubes on them shruggy They all will work good boogie
Good luck, welcome to the hot rod culture of doing it yourself bow grin You do n’t need to touch the pennon gear depth, shims, even if you have to change the flight feather yokeYou should, and need to, check the backfire in 3 or 4 places opposite of each early on the band gear before removing the ring gear on the center incision. It needs to be put back in with the lapp recoil + or – .002 either wayThe Mopar factory service manuals from 1966 to 1971 binding every view of working on and setting up by rights the Dana 60 deoxyadenosine monophosphate well as all the other rear ends offered in the cars those yearsYou should buy one those if you want you want to set the newfangled posi up yourself. The posi unit, center field section carriers, needs to have between .012 and .015 positivist preload. You should buy a good dial index ( one inch travel measuring in .0010 increments ) with a magnetic infrastructure to check the back flog and carrier preloadI do n’t use a case broadcaster either, I use two crowbar bars to cautiously pry the center part out and soft all in blow hammer to carefully put the center section back inI remove the carrier bearings off one of the honest-to-god center section I had and used my die mill with a sanding roll to hone the inner race so they would slip on and off easily on the new posi whole to help check and set the pinion carriage preload ( like thing on the rear pinion bear ) once you have the prelaod and back lash where you want it then remove them and install the newfangled bearings on the shim packs you have on each side, do n’t change the shims after you have them set upMake certain and recheck both the binding eyelash and prelaod, the carrier should not slide in well after the fresh bearings are pressed onAs far as shims Dr Diff offers kits for them, I bought several kits to help avoiding the transportation for the following two I will doThe oldeder Dana 60 use shims to set up every view on them, flight feather depth, pennon and carrier bearing preload and backlash. I have two junkyard truck and van 3/4 short ton Dana 60 in the denounce to use on future projectsAs far as how much to narrow your rear end for your car are you glad with the way the stream wheels and tires fit ? Are you going to reuse them or change them ? If changing them you will need to use them under the car with the buttocks end out to measure how wide the new rise end needs to be from axle flange to axle flange by measuring to the inner coupling surface on the wheelsTake you time in positioning them in the wheels well to get them perfectMopar used a offset on the passenger side on all thier output car rear ends to get the flight feather gear in the center of the driveshaft tunnel, I think it is between 1 1/2 and 1 3/4 edge inadequate on the passenger side axle. possibly person on here can post a connection to a past post with the exact measurments for the different class cars with the sprout Dana 60s measurementsDo n’t forget to buy a new set of leaf spring mounting pads to use on the your Dana 60 house, you may need to make them fit the larger axle tubes if yours are bigger O.D. than the standard 3.0 house whereMine are 3 1/8 and I have seen some out of a 1 long ton that had 3 1/4 edge O.D. tubes on themThey all will work goodGood luck, welcome to the hot gat culture of doing it yourself

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survive edited by Cab_Burge ;

03:01 PM

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Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. ( Old F — thyroxine, Huh )

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