What does the headlight timer assembly behind the ECU do ?

  1. +61404532026, 15:59 #1

    Does anyone know specifically what the headlight timer assembly does ?

    Does it control both the raising and the lowering of the headlights or just the lowering ?

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    I’m having trouble with my driver’s side headlight being delayed in coming up. The passenger side comes straight up but won’t go down again until the driver’s side one comes up when both then immediately go down.

    So, left up….delay…. right up and (if I’ve pressed the courtesy button again) both straight down.

    If I flash the lights, I get the same so I don’t think it is the button.

    Finally, does anyone have a spare timer (+61404532026F00) I could use to eliminate the part from my investigations ?


  2. +61404532026, 16:30 #2

    I have the same issue as you. Not looked in to it yet as busy on other things, so will keep an eye on this.


  3. +61404532026, 18:23 #3

    Post up a pic of it! Might have one you could try


  4. +61404532026, 18:32 #4

    SXOC isn’t accepting photos via tapatalk ATM so I will do later.

    Its a black box with a sliver bracket on it and a white sticker with the part number and the words TIMER ASSY – H/L


  5. +61404532026, 18:41 #5

    No probs! I will have a look in my bits and bobs shelves and get back to you tomorrow evening!


  6. +61404532026, 19:14 #6

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    Guest


    your actual headlights don’t illuminate until the lights are fully open. if you pull the stalk to ‘flash’ someone the headlights don’t actually flash they just go up and down. this is so you don’t dazzle oncoming traffic. the timer sorts the ‘pause’.

    are the headlamp motor wires long enough for you to plug them in opposite? see if the fault swaps sides?

    try winding them up and down by hand to see if one is stiffer than the other, you could have a dry ball joint/rod thingy.

    the uk workshop manual for this stuff is rubbish the 240sx one is better(ish).


  7. +61404532026, 21:22 #7

    I’ve got spare motors so might try one. I’ve checked the rods and they’re all good. It happened all of a sudden. No warning and when it does come up, it comes up quickly. It feels electrical not mechanical

    Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk


  8. +61404532026, 21:25 #8

    Oh, and you’re not quite right about the flash. If you pull and hold, they do light up. If you let go before they are up, they don’t come on.

    Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk


  9. +61404532026, 21:31 #9

    What does the headlight timer assembly behind the ECU do ?

    Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk


  10. +61404532026, 21:32 #10

    Managed to get my phone to upload a PIC

    Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk


  11. +61404532026, 18:39 #11

    Guest


    pages EL40 and EL41 of the manual has all of the info you need for the ‘pop up’ stuff. a good brew is required before even looking at them though.


  12. +61404532026, 18:58 #12

    Sorry dont have any in my stash but if i come across it i will pm you!


  13. +61404532026, 20:58 #13

    Guest


    The headlamp timer doesn’t do “up”. It switches retract relay 3 on, that retracts the lamps by switching pin 2 (down) on the motors from earth to +12V feed from n/c contacts of retract relay 4. I think there an assumption on Nissan part that the lights would always go up but could get some stuck in them that prevents them parking in the down position, the timer switches the motors off before they burn out. They never had one iced shut, that doesn’t go up but just bends and snaps the link rod end off, then the motor moves freely to the up parked position.

    Headlamp motors are wired in parallel so it must be something to do with wiring between the motors or the amount of current being fed is restricted causing a volt drop. Both motors pin 1 “up” is connected to retract relay 4 n/o and the dash switch, these are in parallel.

    If the current was reduced one motor might work (least stiff link/pivot?) and then when it’s fully up current draw stops so voltage rises a bit and the other might work. Back probe the connector to measure the voltage at each “up” pin (brown wire) when running though the up cycle. Then measure each motors current draw by unplugging and feeding power from battery though ammeter set on 20A to pin 1 when in down position, the motor will lift the lamp so avoid it whacking you. Volts and currents should be the same on both motors. If the current draw on both motors is the same then they are OK and it must be wiring.

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    Take the column switch apart and have a look for burning.

    http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?5…ght=insulation

    Test the internal rotary switches and diode are OK page EL-45.

    Take the motors off and look for carbon that can short the switch tracks out.

    http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7…ps75275fab.png


  14. +61404532026, 21:26 #14

    That’s great advice, thanks Peter.

    One question though… can it really be the column switch if it is only one headlamp thats not coming up and if it fails to come up on the valet button ?


  15. +61404532026, 23:08 #15

    Guest


    Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson

    That’s great advice, thanks Peter.

    One question though… can it really be the column switch if it is only one headlamp thats not coming up and if it fails to come up on the valet button ?

    Your right you can scratch the switch as being the culprit.

    Earths?


  16. +61404532026, 07:08 #16

    I’ve checked the motor earth. I’ll get the multimeter out. The IDD thing is it come up at normal speed, just 15-30 seconds after the other one.

    Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk


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